Chipewa, kachitidwe kachitidwe ka nyengo yatsopano

Mu situdiyo yomwe ili pakatikati pa Paris, opanga zipewa amagwira ntchito molimbika pama desiki awo pamakina osokera omwe akhala akugwira zaka zopitilira 50. Zipewa, zokongoletsedwa ndi riboni yakuda, komanso ma fedora a kalulu, zipewa za belu ndi zipewa zina zofewa, zidapangidwa mu msonkhano wawung'ono wa Mademoiselle Chapeaux, dzina lomwe lidabadwa zaka zisanu ndi chimodzi zapitazo lomwe lidatsogolera chipewa cha Renaissance.

Wotsogola wina ndi Maison Michel, m'modzi mwazina zazikulu kwambiri komanso zofulumira kwambiri mu zipewa zapamwamba, zomwe zidatsegula malo ogulitsira ku Printemps ku Paris mwezi watha. Otsatirawa akuphatikizapo Pharrell Williams, Alexa Chung ndi Jessica Alba.

"Chipewa chidayamba kukhala chatsopano," akutero a Priscilla Royer, director director a chanel's own. Mwanjira ina, zili ngati chizindikiro chatsopano. ”

Ku Paris mzaka za m'ma 1920, kunali malo ogulitsira chipewa pafupifupi kulikonse, ndipo palibe mwamuna kapena mkazi wodzilemekeza yemwe adachoka kunyumba wopanda chipewa. Chipewa ndi chizindikiro cha udindo, osati panthawiyo kapena njira yopita ku mafashoni: ambiri opanga mafuta odziwika bwino pambuyo pake amakhala opanga okhwima kwambiri, kuphatikiza Gabrielle chanel (dzina lake ndi miss Coco wodziwika kwambiri), kanu Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin) ndipo (2) zaka zana zapitazo Ross belu kachisi (Rose Bertin) - ndi Mary. Antoinette Queen (Mfumukazi Marie Antoinette) wosoka zovala. Koma pambuyo pa gulu la ophunzira ku 1968 ku Paris, achichepere aku France adasiya zizolowezi za makolo awo kuti apeze ufulu watsopano, ndipo zipewa zidasokonekera.

Pofika zaka za m'ma 1980, njira zachikhalidwe zopangira zipewa m'zaka za m'ma 1800, monga kusoka chipewa cha udzu ndi kuwotcha chipewa chaubweya, zinali zitatha. Koma tsopano, kuti akwaniritse kuchuluka kwakukula kwa zipewa zopangidwa ndi manja, bespoke, maluso awa abwerera ndipo atsitsimutsidwa ndi mbadwo watsopano wa odana nawo.

Msika wa chipewa umakhala pafupifupi $ 15bn pachaka, malinga ndi a Euromonitor, kampani yofufuza zamisika - kachigawo kakang'ono ka msika wapadziko lonse, womwe umakhala $ 52bn.

Koma opanga zisoti monga Janessa Leone, Gigi Burris ndi Gladys Tamez onse akukula mwachangu, ndikulamula kukuchokera padziko lonse lapansi, ngakhale sakhala ku Paris koma m'mizinda yayikulu ngati New York kapena Los Angeles.

Ogulitsa ku Paris, London ndi Shanghai nawonso ati awona kuwonjezeka kwakukulu pamalonda a chipewa. Onse awiri a Le Bon Marche ndi ma printemps, malo ogulitsira apamwamba ku Paris omwe ali ndi LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, awona kuwonjezeka kwa kufunika kwa zipewa za abambo ndi amai pazigawo zitatu zapitazi.

Rane lane crawford, yomwe ili ndi malo ogulitsira ku Hong Kong ndi China, akuti idangowonjezera kugula kwake zisoti ndi 50% ndikuti zipewa zidakhala chimodzi mwazida zogulitsa kwambiri.

Andrew Keith, tcheyamani wa kampaniyo, adati: "Masitayilo otchuka amakonda kukonzanso zochitika zamakedzana - fedoras, panamas ndi brims za amuna ndi akazi. "Takhala tikukumana ndi makasitomala akuti amakonda kuvala zipewa ngati ali wamba, chifukwa ndi zachilengedwe komanso zosasangalatsa, komabe ndizabwino komanso zokongola."

Wogulitsa pa intaneti net-a-porter akuti fedoras akadali chizolowezi cha makasitomala awo, ngakhale kukwera kwaposachedwa pakugulitsa zipewa komanso zipewa za beanie.

Lisa Aiken, wotsogolera mafashoni ogulitsa net-a-porter, omwe tsopano ndi gawo la gulu lankhondo la Yoox net-a-porter ku milan, adati: "Makasitomala alimba mtima ndikulimba mtima pokhazikitsa kalembedwe kawo." Dera lomwe likukula kwambiri pazogulitsa zisoti linali Asia, pomwe kugulitsa chipewa ku China kudakwera ndi 14% mu 2016 kuyambira nthawi yomweyo chaka chatha, adatero.

Stephen Jones, wopanga zisoti ku London yemwe adadzipangira dzina lake ndikupanga masitolo azimayi angapo kuphatikiza dior ndi Azzedine Alaia, akuti sanakhalepo wotanganidwa kale.

Ananenanso kuti: “Zipewa sizifunanso kutchuka; Zimapangitsa anthu kuwoneka ozizira komanso kupezeka pamisonkhano. Chipewa chimapangitsa kuti zinthu ziziyenda bwino m'dziko lamakono komanso lopanda mantha. ”


Post nthawi: May-27-2020